One year ago I rushed around uplugging appliances and zipping
suitcases, making sure everything was ready for our vacation. We bundled up in down coats against the frigid January
morning. I took one last look around, and we left our apartment. We
left Yinchuan. We left China. And it was no big deal.
Never in a
million years would we have imagined that a year later we would still
not be back, we might never be back. We kept thinking we could return
later in February, in March, in April, later in the spring, at the
end of summer, the beginning of 2021, maybe briefly next
summer...never.
I miss so many
things about China.
We had such a
close community, a small group of friends we saw multiple times a
week for shared meals, play-dates, meetings, walks, and home school
co-op. We had the kind of friends that shared their left-overs and
library cards and watched your kids at the last minute.
We had a sweet
ayi (house helper/babysitter) who had been with us since Adalyn was a
baby. She was used to our weird foreign ways: our kids who wouldn’t
wear socks on cold tile floors and the amount of peanut butter we
consumed. She knew far too much about us and loved us anyway.
I miss bumping
down the road in our san lun che, bundled against the cold (in a
mask, because we were doing that long before the virus). I miss
driving past the steaming baozi (breaded dumplings), old women
dancing in the park, and the local mosque. I miss driving the “wrong
way” down the bike lane, because is there really a wrong way? (No.)
Obviously I’m
not fully accustomed to living in a detached house, because I still
hear phantom chopping noises. In a Chinese apartment, it seems you
hear someone whacking away with a cleaver at any given time of day.
I imagine the scratch of straw brooms on pavement, the calls of
students walking by outside our window, and the loudspeakers at the
fruit stalls croaking out, “San jin shi kuai! San jin shi kuai!
(3lb for $1.50). My past self would find it strange, but I actually
miss knowing there are people all around.
I miss the
feeling of safety. I could walk down a dark street at night, take the
bus across the city, or leave my kids in an open vehicle on the side
of the road while I ran into a store. I have to continually remind
myself I’m not allowed to do that here. Schools had earthquake
drills, yes, but never ever mass shooter drills.
I could send my
kids down to the nearby shop to pick up some vinegar. It was on our
campus, only about 3 minutes away, but I literally sent an 8, 5, and
3 year old off to run an errand alone. And that was fine. Everyone
around knew who they were, and anyone around would help them if they
needed it.
I miss Chinese
food. The hand-pulled Hui noodles, preferably eaten at a rickety
metal table in a crowded restaurant. Our ayi’s jiaozi (Chinese
dumplings) which everyone agreed were the best ever. Anything our ayi
cooked. Our favorite restaurants, like the one by the mosque with the
good eggplant, the one with the excellent tofu that we’ve gone to
for 6 years, and the one with my favorite onion dish that is truly
90% cooked onion. Oh, and north-eastern food! And Xingjiang food! So
many good things you just can’t find here.
Every time I go
shopping, I think wistfully of China prices. Vegetables were the
least expensive food you could buy – 30c/lb, maybe 70c/lb for the
pricier things. Apples, oranges, and seasonal fruits were
traditionally 3lbs for $1.50. I miss Taobao, a sort of Chinese Amazon
that has everything, including $15 winter coats, $6 knock-off Lego
sets, and the weirdest things you’ve ever seen.
I mostly avoided
the supermarkets, but I still miss the vats of oil and giant bags of
rice and the whole aisle of instant noodles. A walk through the
market would show half a dozen types of tofu, slabs of hanging meat,
buckets of live fish, and beautiful assortments of vegetables.
I miss the
seasons in China – the flowering trees of spring, the giant trucks
full of watermelon in summer, the baked sweet potato sellers on the
side of the road in fall, the frozen lake in winter.
I miss students and friends coming to our house, bringing giant bags of fruit as gifts. We would talk or play games and the girls would go crazy. The students took lots of pictures with the girls, admired all their toys, and inevitably got roped into a game of hide-and-seek. You had to make sure every single part of the house was clean before someone came over!
One of my friends used to come to my office hours, then to my book club. She was my Chinese tutor for a while. Last year we started going on walk around campus once a week, arm in arm. She was smart and deep and we had many good talks.
I can picture
every room in our apartment: my faded IKEA chair on the laundry
porch, where I would sit under wet laundry catching the sun; the
living room rug and bedspread and kitchen curtains I carefully picked
out; the view from the large kitchen window where each morning I
craned my neck to get a glimpse of the mountains. I know how the
light fell at different times of the day. I rarely turned on overhead
lights, as our 5th floor apartment was bright enough
without them.
Some things were
so familiar – carried through half a dozen moves or passed on from
other foreigners who had moved on. Others were new – the curtains
we gave Adalyn for when we moved her into the office, still folded
and waiting; the electric train set Nadia got for her birthday two
days before we left.
It hurts to think
about all the things we will never see and hear and taste again. It
also stings a little to realize how hard it would be to go back to
that, after settling here.
I enjoy pulling
into the garage (in my enclosed, temperature controlled van) instead
of carting loads of groceries up all those stairs. It would be hard
to go back to Saturday morning Skype calls with my family in place of
in-person visits. I love sitting on my quiet porch in the summer and
by the cozy fire in the winter. We have adjusted to living in a house
twice the size of our apartment – with two bathrooms – and
closets – and a dishwasher.
There are so many
things I miss about our lives in China, but I know it was far from
rosy. It was a much harder place to live. Harder practically - making
every meal from scratch, enduring the many smoggy days, and oh my word, the medical stress!
Harder culturally
- all the attention we drew, all the interactions we decoded, all the
language we learned and forgot, all of the tiny things that wore you
out even after 15 years.
Harder in more
nebulous ways - the unseen weightiness, the self-expectations,
feeling so visible yet so unseen, a constant feeling of instability.
Really we could have seen this coming. Not a pandemic, of course, but
something that unexpectedly ripped us away.
I had considered
what were the most important things I would pack if we had to leave
suddenly. I had a three day plan and a few hour plan (as did most of
the foreign families). I just didn’t have a plan for unknowingly
leaving everything behind forever without a chance to look back.
I have no
resolution or closure for this post, just like there was none for our
leaving. I have just been thinking, especially today, about all the
things I miss.
One year ago we
left that whole life behind. Just. Like. That.